Three tips for an archipelago trip:
1. Don’t miss the boat. Double, no triple check the route to the ferry pier.
2. Bring food. And bring bed sheets.
3. Yes, you need sun screen even in Sweden. No, factor 30 is not enough.
To just pull a light dress over your bathing suit and slip your feet into your sandals to go out into a bright 25 degrees already at 9 a.m., that’s the true summer feeling for me. Sweden is, like most of Europe as I hear, experiencing an intense heat wave right now. In the city, temperatures have stayed at 30 degrees since three days. The best place to be is therefore by the water. And the best place I know in summer is the Stockholm archipelago. I find this to be one of the major advantages of living/being in Stockholm: you can get out to the islands. Is there any place on earth more beautiful? Not for me right now at least.
However, a trip to the archipelago is not the most simple thing. I remember clearly how tourists would come up to me when I worked as a tourist information officer and say, “We want to go to die Schären”, because the Germans somehow thought you could just put two German words into an English sentence. “But we only have two hours”. It usually takes at least two hours one way to get to a real archipelago island. The tricky part is getting on the boat. More than once I have been sprinted to the pier to make it just in time before the ferry leaves. Because that is the thing: if you miss the ferry, your archipelago trip is ended right there. Usually, you can only go once in the morning and once in the evening. It is therefore crucial to know the way to the pier, find it in time and not miss the boat. My friend’s GPS played a trick on her and she missed the ferry by 8 minutes. The island we were at was only some 900 metres from the pier but completely unaccessible without a boat. Because that friend had all our food, Bianca and I were stranded on the island without anything to eat. We checked in at the hostel and asked if we could buy dinner. No – only if you had ordered before coming, you would be served dinner. In the end, after some pleading, we were allowed to get a waffle for 50 kr. Waffles are great but not if you are really hungry for a real dinner. So bring food if you go to an island that is not known as a mecca for restaurants.
Also, it can be smart to bring bed sheets if you plan to spend the night. Because even though the hostel did not inform about that in its booking confirmation, it charged 150 kr per person for sheets. Needless to say, your archipelago trip became more expensive than planned…
Nevertheless, it was a beautiful little island we were on. Sunsets on an archipelago island – priceless. But before sun sets – put on sunscreen. Everyone thinks Sweden is a cold country, but trust me, the sun can get strong. I managed to burn my face even though I had factor 50 (!) sunscreen on it.
In the morning, we woke up two hours before we had to because the other guests, a lot of them being children, slammed the doors approximately 32 times. Not our ideal idea of waking up but we compensated it by lying by the water doing nothing. Well, until Biana called, “There is a boat coming, I think it’s Nicola!” Because the ferries have a surprisingly high speed, I jumped into my beach dress and sandals and hurried to the pier to welcome Nicole (who had food with her!). It felt a tiny bit like being Tjorven welcoming the summer guests.
Three thirds of the island we were on was occupied by a big fortification that the Swedes built in the beginning of the 20th century. The Swedes have always been afraid of the Russians so it was important to defend the archipelago which is the way to get into Stockholm. In the 1700s, the Russians already burnt down most of the islands. The fortification on our island, however, seemed to be a half-hearted project. After years of building, they felt it was not really a good place and more or less abandoned it after a very short while. Talk about waste of tax money? At least we got to look at it during a tour..
In the afternoon, we made our way back to town where I met Tabea and Mia. Mia had the splendid idea to take us to one of my favorite museums, Hallwyllska palatset, that has opened a bar in their enchanting inner yard. Their cocktails have names related to the museum and its history and are in the normal Stockholm price range (which means 144 kr for a cocktail). I highly recommend going there.
We concluded the evening with another brilliant Mia-idea: getting ice-cream at Stikki Nikki. The ice cream shop serves fresh, home-made gelato, ice cream and sorbet with original flavors. I had beetroot.